Sewing School Day 11 ~ Under Stitching


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Today we are going to talk about under stitching.  Under stitching is simply stitching the seam allowance to the lining to keep it from peeking out of the garment…Here’s how you do it:


With right sides together, stitch the lining to the fabric.


If there are any points, clip to them as pictured above.


Trim corners, and clip the seam allowance down to about 1/4″.


NOTE:  If you prefer, you can just clip the curves and corners as pictured above and trim the seam allowance down after you are done under stitching.  This may be easier if you are just starting, but I prefer to trim the seam allowance down with my pinking shears because if I clip the fabric like in this picture, I usually end up clipping my stitching.  lol  Also, with under stitching it is important that you stitch very close to the original stitching (1/8″ or less) so that when the fabric is turned right side out, the under stitching doesn’t cause the fabric to pucker.   Having a narrow area to work with helps, me keep within that area.  But do what feels comfortable for you.


Press the seam allowance toward the lining.


Stitch the seam allowance to the lining about 1/8″ from the original stitching.  (Try to keep the original stitching centered between, the far left and center notch of the zig zag foot.  This will help keep your stitches parallel)


Depending on the shape of what you are stitching, you may not be able to under stitch the entire lining.  You can see in the picture above, I wasn’t able to under stitch in the corners.  Just go as far as you can, and don’t forget to reinforce your under stitch at the beginning(s) and ending(s).


Be sure to straighten the fabric as you are stitching in curves so that you do not stitch any unwanted puckers or pleats into the lining, or worse, the outer fabric!


Lining View


Flip the fabrics right side out and press.


Outer Fabric View


See, easy…  let me know if you have any questions.



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