Welcome to Day 15! Today is blind hem day!! My least favorite hem…mostly because I am lazy and it takes a really long time by hand and I am HORRIBLE at doing it by machine! lol But one of these days, I’m sure you will be happy you know how to do this, so I am just going to to suck it up and write the tutorial!! lol
Whether you are doing your blind hem by hand or machine, start out by doing a double turned hem. First, turn the raw edge of the hem up 1/2″. How much you turn the hem up the second time will depend on your project and preferences. A deeper hem usually gives the garment a richer feel. You also want to consider if you are making something for a child, a deeper hem may allow you to let it down a bit to get more wear out of the garment. Generally, a blind hem is anywhere from 1.5″ – 6″. I wouldn’t go deeper than 4″ on a child’s garment, though….just my humble opinion.
BLIND HEM BY HAND
Take as long a piece of thread as you can comfortably handle, thread your needle, and tie a knot at the ends of the thread. Loop the thread around itself four times to form a thick knot.
Insert the needle in the fold you made when you did the first turn of your double turned hem.
Pass the needle through the skirt fabric, grabbing only a couple of threads of the fabric with the needle.
Now directly below where your needle exited the front fabric, insert the needle back into the hem fold, and exit the fold about 1/2″ down from where you inserted it. Continue this way all the way around the hem.
To tie off at the end of the hem/when you run out of thread, wrap the thread around the needle four times and pull.
If you want to hide the knot between the hem and shirt fabric, simply insert the needle between the hem and skirt fabric and pull the thread out a little below the hem. Gently tug the thread to pull the knot between the two fabrics. Then, cut the thread where it exited the hem fabric.
This is a picture of what it looks like on the right side of the skirt. This is actually a picture of my poorly done machine blind hem, but it should give you an idea of what you are going for. When done by hand, the threads will run horizontally not vertically as pictured here, and you should only see about as much thread as the stitch with the arrow pointing to it…I guess I forgot to take a pic of the blind hem I did by hand…sorry
MACHINE BLIND HEM
Start with a double turned hem. (see beginning of post) Then, fold the hem up again. This time, toward the right side of the skirt, and leaving 1/4″ of the hem fold exposed. Starch and press.
This is what it will look like.
Attach the blind hem foot according to your machine’s users manual, and set your machine to the blind hem stitch. Line up the fold on the left side of the guide on the blind hem foot. Lower the presser foot and stitch slowly. You may need to adjust your needle position/stitch width. A blind hem stitch on a sewing machine is usually 3 straight stitches on the right side of the guide on the blind hem foot , then a half a zigzag stitch that goes over to the left side. (See the pic below) As, I mentioned before, you want to be sure the needle is only grabbing a few threads of the skirt fabric. If the zigzag stitch is too wide and grabbing too much of the skirt fabric adjust the stitch width or needle position depending on your machine.
Here’s what it will look like…Actually it should look better, but I am really, really bad at this! lol That’s why I almost always do it by hand if a blind stitch is required! Anyway, if once your are done stitching, fold the hem back down and press the crease to get rid of it and you are done!