Sewing School Day 17 ~ French & Flat Fell Seams


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Yesterday, we discussed plain seams and how to finish them.  Today, I am going to show you how to do french, faux french, and flat fell seams.  These are often used on shear fabrics, jeans, and children’s clothing.


1) With WRONG sides together, stitch a 1/4″ seam.

2) Press seam allowance to one side.

3) Fold so that RIGHT sides are together and the seam allowance is sandwiched between the fabric.

4) Stitch 3/8″ from original seam.

5) Press seam to one side.

6) Front view of french seam


Tip:  When you are stitching a 1/4″ seam, move the needle to the far right position to help keep the fabric from getting pushed into the feed dogs.


1) With RIGHT sides together, stitch a 5/8″ seam.

2) Press the seam open.

3 & 4) Fold the raw edges to the seam line; press.

5) Stitch the folded edges of the seam allowance together using an edge stitch.

6) Press to one side.



1) With WRONG sides together, stitch 5/8″ seam.

2) Trim one side of the seam allowance down to 1/4″ , and press the raw edge of the other side up 1/4″ .

3) Fold the folded side of the seam allowance over the trimmed side.

4) Press

5) Edge stitch the folded edge of the seam allowance down along the folded edge.

6) Back view of flat fell seam.




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  1. Kathi Alderink says

    I really enjoy these lessons. I know most of the techniques but haven’t used them in a while so it is a nice refresher. Thanks!

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