Yesterday, we discussed plain seams and how to finish them. Today, I am going to show you how to do french, faux french, and flat fell seams. These are often used on shear fabrics, jeans, and children’s clothing.
1) With WRONG sides together, stitch a 1/4″ seam.
2) Press seam allowance to one side.
3) Fold so that RIGHT sides are together and the seam allowance is sandwiched between the fabric.
4) Stitch 3/8″ from original seam.
5) Press seam to one side.
6) Front view of french seam
Tip: When you are stitching a 1/4″ seam, move the needle to the far right position to help keep the fabric from getting pushed into the feed dogs.
FAUX FRENCH SEAM
1) With RIGHT sides together, stitch a 5/8″ seam.
2) Press the seam open.
3 & 4) Fold the raw edges to the seam line; press.
5) Stitch the folded edges of the seam allowance together using an edge stitch.
6) Press to one side.
FLAT FELL SEAM
2) Trim one side of the seam allowance down to 1/4″ , and press the raw edge of the other side up 1/4″ .
3) Fold the folded side of the seam allowance over the trimmed side.
5) Edge stitch the folded edge of the seam allowance down along the folded edge.
6) Back view of flat fell seam.